Monday, June 22, 2009

East Coast Inspiration

Kirsten and Ina got here on Monday last week and it has been very busy. Lots of climbing and enjoying Boulder. I got a Hot new bouldering pad and bag from Josh at Organic as a promotional item through Project Holds. The pad is bright and flashy and displays the Project logo nicely.

I did a quick photo shoot with Kirsten to show off the new products!


Tuesday Nate and I went to Clear Creek with the girls to try Animal (V10), an old Daniel Woods problems located right along the road. I tried it a little last year in 100 degree heat and flailed but this year was a lot better. A clip is below:

Animal (V10)

We headed up to The Park with Ina, Nate, and Kirsten on Friday and I went to go try and finish off Blood Money (V12) and Nate went to try and finish Wildcat (V12). I was able to send Blood Money after a bit of effort and on my second day working it. The problem is really physical and I think it is hard 12. Nate is very close on Wildcat and he should send with the quickness soon! A video for your viewing pleasure:

Blood Money (V12)

There has been a frenzy of activity at Mt. Evans involving strong climbers trying to send the Super Proj at Area B dubbed Sunseeker by Nalle Hukkataival who made the first ascent in a few hours work. I know that Carlo T., Max Z., and Chris Schulte have been putting a lot of effort into the problem over the past week or so, cleaning the line on toprope, hauling in stacks of pads, and working out beta...

Is it poor form to come in and scoop up first ascents without doing any of the legwork? Or is it someone else who is at fault for telling the strong climbers that hard gems are waiting to be plucked? Any thoughts? I'm sure Carlo was pretty bummed after falling off the last hold only minutes before Nalle put the send down, after being spoon fed beta. Carlo did go back the next day to finish off the problem and in no way is his ascent less notable than Nalle's.... Excellent work Carlo! The footage looks amazing.

Should first ascentionists keep projects secret or share them with the world? Depends I guess...

Lots of photos are coming I just have to edit them and upload them to the web.

Till Then...


  1. dang you kids are killing colorado.

    for the record, all those cats scooped the low start FA from the local old man crew. cam cross had done the FA of the 'stand start' last season and had been working the low. not sure about his progress on it, but just want to give respect to cam since he also busts his ass to work on stewardship efforts with front range management at all levels through the nccc.

    one of these days, i will go climbing again.

  2. since nalle established the sit to a problem that had already been done from the stand, shouldnt the name stay the same as whatever Cam Cross named it except with a SDS tacked on the end and a harder grade along with it?

  3. I always think it is hilarious when there are multiple names for a problem, for example, Riddles in the Dark, Riddles Solved, and Riddles in the Park, but there is always a reason for everything. I really like the positive perspective both Carlo and Schulte used on climbing narc to describe the event surrounding Sunseeker.

    I think it is essential to progress the sport through full disclosure of projects location. I really appreciate the way that everyone seemed to be excited just to have been able to climb the line much less talk about it.

    When you climb on the best boulder problems in the country it just makes you happy to be a climber, and that seems to be what is happening with Carlo and Chris.

    Great work G's. Keep it up!

  4. upper chaos, july 5th. 8:15 am arrival at bear lake parking. tell nate. live this plan.

  5. to do my coffee drinking, err, "training" i get up at 5:30. to climb on real rock, i would get up at any time rain or shine.

    because of the long drive i have, in order to get some time on the rock, i need to suck it up and wake up early!

    also, it's a fantastic excuse for when i can't send anything, since i am usually visibly shaking all day after an early morning.

    woot, bitch, woot