Sunday, April 19, 2009

New Boulders in Boonetown...

I love rock climbing.

I hate being pulled over by Parkway Police.

I love airplane turbulence.

There were a lot of people in town this weekend including Dave Tucker, Abby Pulsifer, John Gipson, and Dan Bates. It was great to take people out and show them some fun problems as well as getting to see a new problem of my own...

Nate Draughn on Big Booty Judy (V9) at Sassafras...

Boone has a very large climbing community that is very low key about development and it can be extremely hard to pry some of that knowledge from the people putting up first ascents in the middle of know where. There are a lot of people that have been climbing v10 and harder in the Boone area for many years that have put up some inspiring first ascents. We were lucky enough to run into Paul and Kim Fuelling at Grandmother and Paul was giving us the full spray-down on his newest problem he had established called On Any Sunday at Sassafras. The problem climbs up a clean and direct face that is slightly overhanging to a hard move and a committing mantle at 18 feet or so with a weird sloped landing.

On Any Sunday

Paul repeated the problem twice (despite me butchering his last name for the vid) and I was able to get a second ascent after splitting my tip in a bad way. The problem was great Paul! Nice work. Earlier in the week I went out to a secret spot with Nate and crew and, in keeping with the "celebration of Boone bouldering" theme, sent the first established V10 in Boone. Mad Cow was put up 20 some odd years ago by Joey Henson and it was great to finish off some old projects of mine before making the pilgrimage west and leaving the East Coast.

This week is going to be absolutely insane. I have my Oral Comprehensive exam for grad school at the end of the week and a giant video project that I'm doing on Nate, documentary style.

Making plans and tying up loose ends...


Oh and Max Z. FLASHED the Speed of Life (V10) at Farley. This is my dream problem and it will not be a waterfall next time i go back for it...


  1. If I didn't know any better I would think that you gave me those props 5 hours before I actually did the damn thing, haha. Thanks, good buddy.

  2. Rad line Paul, fa's are always dank. Jon, what are you sniffing on your wrist, some magic zen oil or something?

  3. We almost did a line between that and the tree (tried a couple of times, but never cut rhodo out of way). Did you guys try Clutch(to the right), and Upward Dog (just left of tree with cool dyno and mantle)? Those are also great problems.

  4. Zen Beads that turned out to be Voodoo beads that nearly killed me and got me arrested...

    Thats where upward dog is! we have been looking for that. gotta go back for that one...