Thursday, March 19, 2009

First Ascents in Boonetown...

I went out with Brion Voges and Nate yesterday and got on a couple of my favorite problems that I had put up in the past few years.


The Great Roof and The Masochist...

We warmed up at Grandmother and went to the Great Roof to get on The Masochist (V10). The Great Roof is a monster boulder that has a pile of good hard lines: Nuclear Arms (V13? Unrepeated Litz problem), Sunday Service (V11), and Have Guns Will Travel (V7). On the far left of the wall there is a 20 foot 50 degree overhang with sharp but positive edges out it that are spread perfectly far apart. The problem starts on a good left crimp and you jump off the ground to a good incut and crux at 15 feet. The line had never been done and I decided to start playing on it since it was so clean and tall and there seemed to be a sequence...




I was lucky enough to grab the first on it calling the line The Masochist due to the pain you have to endure in your joints when working it. A couple of the holds hit your joints in very weird ways and really starts to suck after working it for so long. The movement is really fun and the bloc is very intimidating so I was very excited to snatch up this jewel...




Cruxin'

Voges made got a send after 2 days of effort getting the 4th ascent after me, Jimmy Webb, and Mike Stam.

After repeating The Masochist we headed to M1 to try to repeat the sit to Instinct (V8) on the M1 Boulder, Instinctual (V10). There is an obvious line that adds a couple easy moves and one massive and difficult move into the start of the regular problem, then you have to do the powerful V8 finish. The roof is very long and tall so it is a bit intimidating and the move you have to make to gain the start of Instinct is very long and the hold is not very good...

I was able to repeat and Brion quickly followed suit for a 3rd ascent. It was a very good end to a long day...

These two first ascents are some of my favorites in the high country and i am starting to get sentimental as i prepare to leave Boone for good and make the pilgrimage west...

Check out the video I slapped together and enjoy!


The Masochist and Instinctual from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

The weather looks really good tomorrow so we are planing on making a tactical assault on 221 and Lost Cove with Nate, Brion, and Chuck Morris...

2 comments:

  1. Nice vid man. Instinctual looks amazing!
    Smooth operata!

    jweb

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  2. i'm so irritated that i climbed on the bullshit turds that i did today when there's shit like this in the world ripe for the picking. dang

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